One year after booking a trip to St. John’s, Newfoundland, the departure date finally arrived — Sunday, September 7. And here we are, four days later, on the most somber of days in the U.S., September 11, having already experienced a variety of remarkable adventures.
We started by boarding the Iceberg Quest Ocean Tour boat in St. John’s Harbor. This two-hour journey was booked in hopes of spotting humpback whales, but the captain informed us that the whales arrived earlier than usual this year and had already begun their migration south to warmer waters.
Still, the trip was not without wonder. As we cruised along the Newfoundland coast, we saw cave entrances reportedly stretching up to 300 feet deep. We also passed Cape Spear, a stunning lighthouse perched dramatically at the continent’s edge — the easternmost point in North America and a national historic site.
The next day, we traveled over two hours south of St. John’s with a private guide to the Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Preserve — a dramatic, remote stretch of land on Newfoundland’s southwestern coast.
The approach to the cliffs was breathtaking. Driving into the preserve, we were surrounded by rolling, tundra-like terrain that reminded me of hiking in northern Alaska back in July 1998.
After a brief stop at the visitor center — where a sign warned about the area’s notoriously dense fog — we were lucky to be greeted by clear skies and bright sun. Our walk to the cliffs (about 1.25 miles) was accompanied by the rising sound of seabirds. And sure enough, as we arrived at the viewing area, we encountered an astonishing sight: 30,000 Northern Gannets, loudly socializing, swooping, and squabbling over prime rock real estate 600 feet above the North Atlantic.
Some birds glided overhead searching for landing space, some hovered to relieve themselves (mid-air, of course), and others clung tightly to their nesting spots. We could’ve stayed for hours watching their fascinating behavior — but it was time to return.
Our guide, Steve, a retired local now working with the excellent team at McCarthy’s Party, made the day even more informative and enjoyable.
Today brought our most physically challenging adventure yet: kayaking across Conception Bay, about 20 minutes west of St. John’s, all the way to the mouth of the North Atlantic!
The weather was no joke — strong wind and rain made the paddle tough, but our guide, Peggy, of the equally impressive Ocean Quest Tours, kept us safe and encouraged throughout.
And then — a truly magical moment: as we were about a mile from finishing the return leg, a 600–700 lb tuna exploded out of the water in front of us — not once, but three times — as it chased its prey. A dramatic and unforgettable wildlife encounter.
Despite the wind and waves, this excursion was a highlight of the trip and left us tired but exhilarated.
It’s been a fantastic week exploring both urban St. John’s and the wilder landscapes of Newfoundland’s coast and forests. The mix of natural wonder, cultural insight, and personal challenge has been deeply rewarding.
But I’m also looking forward to returning home and getting back to IT support, troubleshooting, and repair in Westchester County next week!
Until then, thanks for following along.
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Marc
MarcB IT